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************************************************************* Animal Care, Tips and Advice ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Here's what to look for when choosing your pet or animal: * Decide beforehand whether or not you want a male or female, long (be prepared to spend many hours grooming the cat, dog or animal - long hairs shed a LOT!) or short hair cat, etc. What breed do you want? To help you with these decisions, ask a veterinarian, neighbor, friend or go to your library. The reference person will be glad to help you find the information you nedd to help you come a conclusion. * Be sure the eyes are clear and bright without discharges. * The ears should be clean, free of ear mites or infection. Ear mites look like small bits of sandy, black dirt. * Make sure the tongue and gums are nice and pink. * Check for discharge from the nose, or sneezing. * Make sure their coat is glossy with no bare spots. * The skin should be free of any sores, dry patches, or irritations. * Check the stomach for bloating which can signal internal parasites. * Be sure the animal is at least 8 weeks old and fully weaned before adopting or buying. Your pet's mealtimes: * Serve food at room temperature. Cold food is less attrac- tive, and can cause stomach upset. * Ensure a balanced diet by alternating brands and flavors of food, preferably natural with no preservatives or additives. * Keep your animals' dishes clean, and change the water daily. * Give each pet their own dish in the same place every time. Also, give them enough room to eat comfortably. * Ask your veterinarian (preferably a holistic one - someone who has knowledge of natural, organic foods and natural, non-invasive healing methods and techniques.) Please note: See the chapter "Resources" for an all-natural food for animals. .............................................................. Cat Care Tips Below, are a few things to consider when deciding whether or not you want your cat to live indoors, outdoors, or both. Outdoor living risks: * Could be hit by a car * Fights with other animals * Risk of falling from a tree * Could be accidentally poisoned from chemicals, pesticides, composting garbage, or intentionally poisoned. * May get lost or stolen * Exposure to infectious diseases * If you live in a rural area, there are wild animals that may attack your cat. * Risk of parasite infestation * Risk of indiscriminate mating * Development of allergies Needs of outdoor cats: * Give her a collar with and I. D. tag. * If you feed her high quality, natural food, she'll be less inclined to catch and eat prey which may be poisoned or contaminated with pesticides. * When you leave, be sure your cat has ample shelter from the weather. When it's hot, be sure she has shade and cool water to drink. * Check your cats for fleas, ticks, bites, wounds. Puncture wounds can heal over, causing an abcess. * Alter your cat to prevent dangerous roaming, fighting or unwanted litters. Needs of indoor cats: * Be sure she has fresh water, dry and wet food every day. * One of the most important needs of your cat is exercise. Be sure you play with her a lot. (Note from Linne: My husband put a catnip mouse toy on the end of a string. He swings it around in circles and our Penelope, a long-haired calico, tears after it. It's great fun for all, especially when she skids across the kitchen floor!) If there's no time to exercise your cat, build an outside run. Be sure that it's enclosed, safe and that there is an off-the-ground shelter from the weather with a comfy "lay-upon" in it. (Edito's note: Refer to cat and other pet/animal training and care books in the library for further information on this and for any other questions that were not answered in this chapter.) * Indoor cats tend to shed year-round, so they need more grooming. * If you are away at work all day, consider getting your cat a companion. Some older cats do fine with kittens. It's best to introduce her to a kitten that's 12 weeks old. If you have a kitten, all the better. Get her another kitty, or puppy to play with. If she's a kitten, consider a parrot, guinea pig or even a mouse! * A litter box (buy a litter scooper with your box) that's kept fresh, clean, easily accessible and in a quiet, low-traffic part of the house. * A scratching post and at least one sunny window with a carpeted window ledge. Cats and all animals need some sun. If there's little sun in your home, use a full spectrum light. Please note: For simplicity's sake, I've used "her" and "she" throughout this section. * Toys to play with. Catnip mouses, crumpled up pieces of paper, old, knotted socks, toilet paper tubes, and ping pong balls (if they don't chew them) are fun for cats. Keep getting her new toys. Observe your kitten/cat at play and find out which toy is their favorite. When it gets shabby, buy a new one. * Avoid buying poisonous house plants. If you do have some, hang them high, out of your cat's reach. * Make sure your home or apartment is well ventilated. * If you want an indoor cat, it's best to leash train them when they're kittens. This way, they can get the health benefits of the great outdoors. * If you're allergic to cats, but must have one, here are some things you can do to lessen your symptoms: @ Install an air filter @ Vacuum and dust often @ Feed your kitty natural oils (flaxseed, safflower, Vitamin E - organic is healthiest for your pets and animals). @ Brush your cat often, away from your main living areas - perhaps on your porch. Finish with a damp cloth massage. For this put an old soft sock on like a glove. @ Supposedly, acupuncture is extrememly effective in treating allergies of all types. @ Also, there are some very effective herbal, allergy relief capsules on the market now. Ask the manager or a clerk at your local natural foods store to advise you on this. * Before you go to work, tell your cat where you're going and reassure her that you will be back. This will keep your cat from ripping up the place and going neurotic on you. * Put all toxic and potentially dangerous substances, gadgets, items, tools, hanging small appliance and frayed cords, etc. far out of reach of pets and animals (far from children, too.) * Statistics show that indoor kitties live longer than outdoor kitties. To show your cat who's in charge: * Teach your cat to come when called * Train your cat to let you pick her up or hold without without resistance, when necessary. * Be aware of when and how to use effective techniques to discourage any inappropriate behavior from your cat. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Your New Kitty Most kitties are ready to take home from catteries, pet shops or homes when they're from two to four months old. This is a time for very gentle handling. Every thing is new and a bit frightening to the new little one. Get all your kitten's supplies - bed, litter pan, fresh cat litter and scoop, water and food dishes, scratching post, and a some toys before bringing baby home. The bed: Have the bed all set up in a quiet cubby of the house. Be sure there are no drafts there. It's ideal to place the a bed a few inches off the floor. The bed can be a fancy on from the store, a basket, or a cardboard box with a small opening cut in it with a fluffy, clean comforter, blanket or a rug in it. You can even use an old pillow. Keep the bedding clean. Kittens like it cozy. They're use to cuddling up to their warm and furry mama! Food and water dishes: Buy dishes that's easy to clean (stainless steel, porcelain, ceramic or plastic) and durable. Remember, keep it shallow - cats do not like deep bowls. Have an ample supply of food (dry and wet) before kitty arrives, too. Bringing baby home: Bring your "baby" home when you have plenty of time to spend with her to familiarize him/her with the new surroundings - on a Saturday morning or during your vacation (if you work away from home.) The best way to transport kitty is in a carrier. Be sure it's well-ventilated and has a secure latch. For later use, it's worth it to buy an adult cat sized carrier for vet and other trips. Soften the floor of the carrier with a blanket or rug or finely shredded newspaper in case of accidents. Drive slowly so kitty won't get bumped or slid around. When you get home, take the kitty out of the carrier and introduce him to everyone. Keep your other pets and children away for awhile. Show her the litter box. Kitty will probably feel out of sorts and tired - so put him/her in bed for a nap. Pick up or put down your new kitty GENTLY. Use both hands. Start from the side by placing one arm around his front legs, the other around his back legs or stomach. Hold your kitty like you would a newborn baby. If you have children teach them how to handle the new addition. Pet him often. stroke her back and under the chin. This will help her to trust you. You can also put your flat hand under the chest between the front legs. When you put your kitty down, lower him gently and slowly - placing all her feet on the floor. It's best not to let kitties jump out of your arms or off your lap. When kitty is on your lap straighten your legs and let her slide down. Playmate for kitty?: Have a veterinarian check the kitty's health. Secondly, let the new kitty sniff around himself so he can get used to the scent of the kitty that's already there. Keep the "old" kitty away from the new one for awhile. Some people put the kitties in separate cages next to each other until they get used to being roommates. Give the "first" kitty lots of attention to avoid insecurity and/or fighting. she may not want to eat and may be destructive for a few days or weeks. This "attitude adjustment" period cannot be rushed. too quick of an introduction will encourage fighting. Then it will take much longer for the two to get friendly! It's best to bring a kitty home to a mature doggy household, and not a full-grown cat. A mature cat would get far too much attention and adoration for doggy's liking! Give your dog lots of attention and reassure doggy that she is still "top dog' in your eyes. Familiarize them gradually. They need to get the scent of the other. Be sure to kitty's claws are trimmed to avoid nasty scratches. For the first few weeks, keep an eye on them. Do not let them be alone together. Housetraining: Being cats like to be clean, it's pretty easy to persuade your kitty to use the litter box. It's even easier if your kittens are with their mama. Put the litter box near the "nest" a week or so after they're born. Mama kitty will show them how to dig and do the rest without any help from you! However, some kitties need a little coaching. Put the kitten in the box, gently hold above his paws and gently scratch for him until he takes over. Once the box has his/her odor, this will encourage him to use it again. During the training process, let the box get a little "dirty" until your kitten gets the hang of it. Do not let it get too dirty. After she learns, clean the box often. Wash it out with hot soapy water and rinse it well. Be sure to dispose of it in a place where no other animals or small children can get into it. Wash your hands thoroughly after changing the box, also. The reason for this is that toxcoplasmosis can be transmitted from infected cats litter to people. If he makes a mistake, pick him and say no firmly, not loudly. Then place him in the litter box and help him scratch. Clean up these mistakes quickly with hot soapy water and then rub with two ounces of white vinegar in one pint of water to neutralize the odor. This way your kitty will not seek out the same spot again. When training your furry friend, GENTLE, calm and patient. Scratch Post Training: Begin this training immediately after bringing kitty home. The scratching post ought to be at least twelve inches high so that kitty can put all his weight on his/her hind legs and use the forepaws to claw. Keep this post near his bed because most cats scratch upon waking up. Sometimes a kitten will go to the post on his own. While some must be coaxed and shown how to use it. When your kitty starts scratching something valuable, say No! firmly and squirt him with a plant mister. Then, take his to the post, hold his front legs, and gently move them downward on the post to show him what she is supposed to do. Once they get it, they'll forget about the drapes, leather furniture, and your favorite recliner! Please note: See the chapter "Resources" for information on sisal scratch posts. (Editor's note: We rub fresh catnip on our cat's post - seems to get her more interested. You can get catnip in bulk at a natural foods store.) Leash training: Leashes are great for people who travel a lot. According to most cats, they're not so great! As soon as your kitty is wearing a collar (very important to have an I.D. tag (see "Resources"), in case kitty gets lost) put a leash on her. Just let kitty drag it around and play with it until she becomes accustomed to it. Stand by to untangle the leash, if necessary. After a few days of this, take the leash and gently, SLOWLY guide kitty around the room. Mind you, this is not the most natural thing for a cat! So - expect some (a lot!) of resistance. When you think kitty is ready, take her out for a walk where there are little or no people and animals. In time, Kitty will come to like being leashed, as she begins to understand that the leash means you are near for protection. ````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````` Dog Care Tips * Be sure your dog is not overeating. When you feed your dog more, you're not loving him, you're actually poisoning him. * Refrain from feeding your dog or cat fatty table scraps. Not only will it teach them to beg, it could give them hardening of the arteries, strokes or heart disease. * Make sure he is getting enough exercise * Be sure your dog has a bone, a rawhide bone or chew strips to chew on - especially when left alone. This will keep him from chewing your house up! Also, talk to him gently and reassure him you are coming back before you leave home. * If he has a tendency towards dental problems, brush his teeth daily. For more on this, see the article at the end of this chapter, and the last two paragraphs in "Fascinat- ing Facts." Tips for the traveling doggy: * Begin training when he is a puppy. Take him on short trips at first, and then make them gradually longer. Sometimes, take them to a park or the woods to play, and give them a treat before and after the trip - so they'll associate travel with something pleasant. * If you are going on a longer trip, take his food and water bowls, bed, blanket, and maybe a bone or toy. It's also wise to have a scooper, plastic bags and paper towels. * In the country, you often see dogs in the back of a pick-up truck. If the dog is tied in, make sure that the leash is short enough that he can't get over the side. If the leash is to long, he could jump out and be dragged. These accidents can range from being expensive to fatal. And they always involve suffering for the dog and owner. * Find a specific place for your dog in the car, and train him to stay there for your dog's safety and your comfort. ````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````` Your New Puppy Tips: * Consider size and temperament in choosing the best pup for you. They say that the best age to bring a pup home is when they're seven weeks old. Preferably, the puppy will have received plenty of attention and some training since he was six weeks old. If you have preschoolers, wait until the puppy is eight weeks old before bringing him home. Be really patient with an eight week old pup. A puppy this age is very anxious. Loud noises, abrupt movements and rough treatment will fill him with fear that may take months to get over. * Take your pup to the vet before or shortly after his eighth week. * If your pup is ten to twelve weeks, he'll be more spunky, especially if he is a larger breed. He'll sleep a lot less during the day. His still young enough that it will be easy to get his attention. It's essential that you begin training your pup now. * Make a place that your puppy can call his own - BEFORE you bring him home. Be sure it is a haven with a clean and comfy bed. It needs to be safe, quiet and away from the main traffic and a retreat from overeager children. * Never punish the puppy in his eating or sleeping places. * Be sure you have durable food and water dishes, food, etc. before his arrival. * Feed him food that's formulated especially for puppies. Supplement his diet, if necessary. * Do not place your puppy on a bed, chair or couch, he could fall and break a bone or dislocate a joint. This is the time to establish ground rules around furniture. It's better to not let him get on the furniture now, if you're not wanting him there later. * Give the puppy plenty of exercise and play. Give him 2 or 3 short walks a day rather than one long walk which could exhaust him. * If your puppy is crying at night, wrap up an old-fashioned loud, ticking clock and put it in his bed. * Speak to your puppy (and other pets, animals, and people too!) with a gentle, loving tone. * Wait until he is about 5 months old to bathe him. Bathing him any younger can cause dry skin and hair. * Teach children to lift the puppy safely and gently with one hand under his chest and the other hand under his hind end. Do not let them pick him up by the scruff of his neck. Tell children not to tease the puppy. Bringing baby home: For the first few days, your "job" is to help him get acquainted to you, family members and his environment in a safe and loving way. This first impression is all-important. Your new "baby" will need a lot of rest and privacy at first. During the first couple of days, however, he may be real excited and scamper about the house sniffing out his new surroundings. Again, have everything ready for the new arrival before you bring him home. The most traumatic time for pup his is first night alone. To help them with this, keep the puppy (in his own comfy bed) in your bedroom his first two nights - three at the longest. If you let him stay longer than three nights, he'll cry -- and cry LOUD until you bring him back to your side! There is an exception to this rule. If you're away from home a lot, you may consider letting the pup sleep in your room all the time. The puppy would grow up to be a lot more secure knowing that you want to be with him as much as you can. If you do, keep him in a crate before you go to sleep, or on a short rope tied to something until he's house-trained. Make sure the rope is the correct length so he can lie down without tangling up. Playmate for puppy?: It's best to wait five to six months before bringing the second puppy home. Why? Because you want the pup to bond with you - not each other. When they have a buddy, neither one of them will give you their full attention. Making it much more difficult to train. Research shows that puppy-person bonding is necessary for a superior relationship. It also makes it considerably easier to train your pet. House-training: Dogs have varied opinions on this subject! Some will learn in a few weeks, and others - months. Some pups are better at adjusting to routine, while others just don't get it! Some pups have problems with muscle and bladder control. While others are strong in this area. There are many different factors that determine when your puppy will be housebroken. Whatever you do, be patient with puppy -- do not spank or otherwise, intimidate or humiliate the little creatures. Below are some puppy house-training tips: * Feed the puppy at the same time daily. when he's done, take him outdoors IMMEDIATELY. Also, put him out when he awakens from a nap, and after a rambunctious play session. * Keep him near you so you can watch him. You could even tie a a three to four foot line around your waist and put him on the end of it. * When you're unable to watch over him, take him outside or keep him in a crate (just large enough so that he can stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortable in. If it's too bid, it'll encourage him to "mess" in it.) with water, a clean, comfy blanket or carpet piece and his favorite toys - confine him no longer than two hours -for eight to ten week ould puppies, and no longer than three to four hours for older pups. Right after you let him out of the crate, put him outside. * If you're gone all day, keep the pup in an easy to clean room. Laundry rooms with vinyl flooring work well. Put wall-to-wall newspapers down, or just clean up up the bare floor. Slowly put lesss and less papers down - until just a small area is papered. When puppy is about three months, take away the paper and train him for outside only. * Put your pup in the same area outise each time, and wait near him. If nothing happens, go inside and leave him outside for awhile. Observe him, then go and PRAISE him heavily everytime he does his thing. If nothing, bring him in and take him out about every eight minutes until he does. After the first week, say something like "Come on, let's go" to help him to get things done in a reasonable amount of time. * When you catch him messing up in the house, just TELL him what you think, pick him up gently and run him outside. * Disinfect the area with vinegar or a commercial solution (please buy organic/environmentally, pet-people safe!.) This will take away the attracting odor -- in theory, anyway! * Two hours before pup's bed-time, take his water away from him. Put him outside before he goes to sleep. Then put him in an easily cleaned room or in his crate by your bed. He'll cry when he wants out. Leash training: * Choose the lightest weight leash possible. * Let the puppy lead. Do not jerk or pull too hard on the leash. Follow him for a few minutes, then remove the leash. * When your puppy wants to go back in after playing, put the leash on him before he goes happily through the door. * Be sure the collar isn't too tight. * When a pup starts chewing the leash, verbally encourage him to pay attention and pat your leg as you walk. Walking quickly, almost running helps get his attention, too. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Horse Care Tips Here's some things to consider when purchasing a horse: * Can you afford time and money-wise to adequately feed, shelter, train and care for the horse? * Providing hoof care * Be sure that you're prepared to feed your horse 7 days a week, at least twice a day! * Giving your horse (and all pets and animals) veterinarian care if and when needed. * Are you willing to exercise your horse, and see to it that he has a pasture or paddock to exercise himself? Feeding your horse: * Clean water and salt must be available at all times. * Never give your horse dusty, moldy, musty, dirty, or frozen feed. * Keep all feed and hay off the floor. There may be worm eggs there. Do not keep a loose bucket around, either. It's an accident waiting to happen. * Keep the food and water and containers clean. * Feed your horse treats occasionally. Carrots and apples are well-loved snacks. Many horses like citrus and other foods. Avoid fruits with pits. * Be really careful not to put too much grain and hay in * Change their diet slowly and gradually to avoid colic. If colic is suspected, call your vet immediately! * Do not feed a tired horse their full feed. * Stay clear of a horse while he's eating - you may get kicked! * Do not work him when his stomach is full. * If going to work a horse hard, feed him only a half ration. Give him the other half later. * Do not feed grain to a hot horse. Hay is fine. * Do not leave a bale or a lot of hay or feed anywhere in their stable. They will eat too much, which can be fatal. * Beware of letting your horse graze on pasture land or grass that has been sprayed with weed killer, or along a roadside where it has been sprayed with brush killer. * If you feed your horse grass clippings, only give him a handful because they ferment and can make your horse sick. * Sudan or sorghum-sudan grass must be removed from their pasture at first frost. Frost causes prussic acid to form which is fatal to horses. Be sure to identify any poisonous plants in your area, prevent access, and get rid of the plants. Tips for the traveling horse: * Feed them lightly. Only half a ration of grain before shipment or trailering and the rest after he arrives. while traveling, give him plenty of alfalfa hay (more than you normally would to keep him happily occupied). * Give him all the water he'll drink at frequent intervals. In very hot weather, avoid cold water because he could gorge himself, causing colic. * Provide plenty of fresh air. In cold weather, provide a blanket. * Do what you can to help relax and rest the horse before travel or shipment. * Be sure the stalls are padded and that there are no protruding nails or other injury causing hazards. * Avoid hauling horses alone. If you or the horse gets into trouble, it's a good idea to have help along. * Carry tools and equipment. Bring a pinch bar, flashlight, hammer, gloves, hatchet, saw, nails, pliers, extra halter and shanks, pitchfork, and a broom. * Ship horses barefoot, whenever possible. * Bandage their legs to keep the ankles from getting scuffed, etc. * Be calm and patient when loading and unloading. Talk to him kindly, stroke and reassure him. A little snack of carrots or oats may be useful. * Be sure you clean and disinfect the area before loading your horse in. * If you're crossing interstate lines, get your required health certificate and proof of ownership from a vet. Personal safety around a horse: * Do not punish a scared horse. This will only escalate the situation. * Do not use chemicals and pesticides around the horse. There are many natural and safe substitutes. * Be sure your riding equipment is in sound condition. * Recheck your girth and cinch before mounting. * Wear sturdy shoes or boots for riding. If you're wearing sandals, you're in big trouble if he steps on your toes! * Do not smoke near the stable, hay or grain. These materials are very dry and can easily catch fire. * Avoid making sudden, loud noises around the horse. They can be easily spooked. * When saddling up, make sure the horse's hair isn't stuck in the cinch or girth. * Watch out for small children and pets around horses. * Approach a strange horse carefully. He may have some bad habits! * Do not get angry or overly emotional while training your horse. * Stay very alert while riding. Sometimes you need to respond quickly. * Be very aware when riding through the woods in hunting season, and wear bright-colored clothing. Or, wait until the season is over to ride in the woods! * If your horse becomes frightened while riding him, and tries to run, turn him in a circle and tighten it until it stops. * Keep a secure hold in the saddle when riding, and keep your horse under control at all times. ............................................................. Your Pet's Health by Dr. Michael Lemmon, D.V.M. One of the areas of pet health that is overlooked by some people is just inside their pet's mouth. In the past, few people bothered to look inside their pet's mouth or considered it to be any problem unless their breath was extremely odorous or was in apparent pain because their pet had difficulty using its mouth for eating. Current medical and veterinary research demonstrates that peridontal disease can affect the general health of pets and may contribute to diseases relating to the lungs, heart, kidneys, joints, and other parts of the body. This process may take action of the bacteria in the mouth that are under and around the built up calculus (calcium deposits). These bacteria can enter the blood circulation through damaged or inflamed gum tissue. The bacteria may then accumulate and multiply in previously mentioned organs, causing disease. In recent times, veterinarians have been encouraging people to start cleaning their pet's teeth when they are very young and to continue this daily routine the rest of their lives. By beginning when they are young, many pets can be trained to accept this activity. There are many techniques that veterinarians suggest utilizing such as various types of brushes and cleansing agents. One of the best commercial cleansing agents is called "Maxiguard Oral Cleansing Gel". One of its main ingredients is zinc ascorbate (zinc + Vitamin C). The zinc ascorbate helps with maintaining healthy gums. This product may be obtained from your local veterinarian. One easy, inexpensive, yet beneficial tooth brushing technique, is to wrap a piece of cotton gauze around your finger and dip it into hydrogen peroxide and rub the surface of your pet's teeth. Many pets will accept this method over the use of a tooth brush. The gauze texture will help clean the plaque from the tooth's surface while the hydrogen peroxide will destroy any bacteria contact. The most commonly affected teeth are the upper molars, premolars, and canines on the outside surface, and these areas are easily reached by a gauze covered finger. This procedure takes less than one minute daily. Recent studies show that rawhide strips are very effective for the prevention and removal of plaque and calculus. "Plaque Attacker" dental devices from Nylabone Products have shown similar benefits. They have specifically designed flexible raised tips that remove plaque and calculus while massaging the gums for further benefit. Uncooked knuckle bones or oxtails can also provide another way to exercise the pet's jaw and teeth as well as cleanse the tooth's surface. The classic research of Francis M. Pottenger, Jr., M.D., showed that cats maintain superior dental health while on a raw food diet versus cooked food. He conducted a ten year study with nine hundred cats. Those on raw foods also had superior health in all their organ systems. Those on cooked foods developed many degenerative disease problems, more readily attracted parasites such as fleas and worms, and were not able to continue reproducing after the third generation. Those on raw food maintained healthy teeth and gums generation after generation, while those on cooked food developed inflamed gums, dental caries, and periodontal disease. The book "Pottenger's Cats" may be obtained from Acres, U.S.A., PO Box 9547, Kansas, City, MO 64133. Monthly publication on holistic cat care that discusses many subjects including raw food diets is "Tiger Tribe" at 1407 East College St., Iowa City, Iowa 52245. According to some veterinary dental specialists, a high quality, dry commercial pet food will help maintain good oral health. It is a good idea to look for a pet food that is highly palatable and digestible. It should have a high quality poultry and lamb meal as its first ingredient and should avoid meat and poultry by products. It should use whole grains rather than grain by products. It should use quality fats that are preserved with antioxidants such as vitamins c and e, rather than BHA and BHT. One such food found to be extremely palatable and of very high quality is called TLC by Alphen. It is also readily available throughout the United States and Canada through home delivery. As is true with people, some pets are blessed by heredity with healthy mouths and may never need to have dental work done. There are also some pets that even with the best of home dental care and good nutrition will need periodic oral examination work performed by a veterinarian. Please note: Additional information on Alphen TLC may be ob- tained by E-mailing to: Pefeeder via America Online. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Chapter End